Road Racing Suspension Question

[brettd]

I saw a post "semi-recently" with pic's attached of a clean looking coil over set up. Anybody know who that was? (search mode wasn't too helpful) Secondly, who is currently running adjustable shocks (jounce and rebound) on their Type R or GSR and what brand? I need something that is good for Road Racing and still leave your teeth in your head for a daily driver. (Holden, are you still running the H&R springs with the AGX's) The stock set up in the Type R is great but I'm going to run Hoosier's and I'm certain the suspension's shortcomings will be more apparent than ever. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[This message has been edited by brettd (edited May 17, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by brettd (edited May 17, 2001).]

[Holden]

"Holden, are you still running the H&R springs with the AGX's"

Yup. They're only a bit harsher than stock at the softest and seem to do well autocrossing at 3f/4r. The car usually posts one of the fastest times among the cars with street tires.

If you're very competitive, you'll be happier with beefier springs and coil overs, but this combo is a good compromise.

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Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC @10psi, All the Goodies!
Best 1/4 ==> 13.937 @ 101.41mph (at 6psi)
My JRSC Install Site

[AMslp_late]

I've got Neuspeed Race springs and Tokico Illumina adjustable shocks. They suprised me in how smooth they rode, and they made a tremendous difference in handling.
front-3, rear-3 settins work well for me.

austin

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96gsr 4door w/jrsc at 8psi---crazy new mods in the works
Current daily driver = Ducati 916

[The ANTI-RICE]

My current set-up is tried and true. I run the KONI YELLOW single adjustables with some OPM ( http://www.opmmotorsports.com ) coilover sleeve kits. The springs that "TOM" @ OPM recomends are the EIBACHS. You can get custom rates in 50lb increments. For my 2dr 96 JRSC/GSR, i run 400lb front srpings coupled with 600lb rear springs. Yes the ride is much harder than stock, however, this car IS my daily driver and i dont think its THAT bad, i stay off backroads though.

With this setup, it makes the car VERY tailhappy, especially with the TYPE R 22mm rear swaybar. Thats why i TOOK THE REAR SWAYBAR OFF. Yes, i said i run NO REAR SWAY BAR. With no rear swaybar, 225 tires on front, 205's in rear, the KONI's at 50% in front and 25% in rear, the car is an absolute BLAST to drive.

Im sure as my driving skill progresses, ill put the ITR 22mm bar back on, but until i get used the car, ill slowly progress. Also, my car is usually in the top 8 FTD cars at our local ETRSCCA events. ( http://www.etrscca.org )

ALso, dont forget to put some urethane in the front swaybar, really helps out!

My setup has been described as EXTREME, but i like it very well. With the removal of the rear swaybar, the car jus feels soo much more controllable, especially in the slaloms.

Good luck,
Tony

P.S. Is you need LESS/MORE oversteer, the KONI's can be adjusted to accomadate that within seconds.

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96 GSR, Kills RICE in 4.96 seconds...
Support R.A.S.R., take it to the track and be a REAL RACER.

Come see MY world... http://maxpsigsr.overboost.net

[brettd]

Thanks guys. I'll let you know what I go with and how they work on the tracks here in SoCal.....I'll be at Buttonwillow next week. If I can't get it done by then I'll be back there for the expo in July.

http://www.socalitr.com/

[This message has been edited by brettd (edited May 18, 2001).]

[cpa]

What is required to access adjustment on the AGX's in the rear on a 94+ GSR? Is the adjustment on the shock body or the top of the shock? Can you only get at it through the trunk (as if you cut out access to install a rear strut tower bar)?

[BlownAway]

Tony:
I ran for a month or so without the rear sway bar as well. With the adjustable* shocks in the rear, removal of the bar can be (somewhat) compensated for.
But, now that the bar is back on, the front tires are more "planted" in the turns. You may not notice much tirespin due to your LSD.
Just something to think about...

*I thought the KYBs would adjust only dampening, but it seems like they have more effect on spring rate than dampening.

Tom

[Holden]

AGX shocks are adjusted from the top, either through the plastic strut cover doors (if you have no rear strut tower brace) or, if you do have a brace, the covers are already off and you just need to find a way to get past the brace.

It was no problem with a DC sports brace. With my homemade brace, I need a mirror to see what I'm doing.

It's not hard at all.

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Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC @10psi, All the Goodies!
Best 1/4 ==> 13.937 @ 101.41mph (at 6psi)
My JRSC Install Site

[VaporTrail]

So far the best things I have tried have been Tein and Apex-i N1 coilovers for street/track duty. Both use a shortened casing, which retains the suspension travel of stock ride height, which equates to a smoother ride with less bottoming out. While these two cost more than the sleeve over shock variants, the difference is quantifiable, and worth it. After 6 years of using/riding in every setup I could possibly find, my back is finally not in pain anymore

Don't forget the rear sway bar. I've been using suspension techniques with much success as of late. Finally, if you can, go with poly bushings throughout with watercraft grease. You won't be dissapointed with any of my suggestions, that I promise.

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-JG-
-1994 Civic EX-
-Rebuild in process, turbo in the mail-
-vapor-trail.net-

[This message has been edited by VaporTrail (edited May 21, 2001).]

[pest]

How long have you used "Watercraft grease" w/ the bushings? Where can you get it?

Would it be better than anti-seize??

I have a full ES bushing kit to put on my car and Im thinking of other lubricants that will stay longer than 6 mths.

Pete

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